Strawberry Legs: A Problem for Women of Color

I live in South Florida where wearing short shorts is the overwhelming style of choice. A casual trip to the market, a morning run or a night out on the town will showcase bare legs across tropical south Florida. But for those self-conscious about the appearance of the legs? What if the skin on your legs were sprinkled with dark lesions or bumps that would not clear up, despite your efforts? What if you were so self conscious about your legs that instead of short-shorts you have adopted the long pant (what a travesty!)?

 For many women, particularly women of color, strawberry legs are a big problem. Dark, connect-the-dot like marks appear all over the legs, resembling the skin of a strawberry, hence the name. This is a follicular issue and can be seen with all skin types, however for women with a darker pigmentation, it is much more noticeable. A condition like this can hinder one's self-confidence and freedom to expose their legs! Luckily, there are a few solutions, but note that it may take a few attempts to find the method that works for you. 

 WHY ARE THE SPOTS DARK IN THE FIRST PLACE?

The black specs characteristic to strawberry legs are actually black-heads called open comedones, the same black-heads you may find on your nose or forehead. This occurs when sebum, debris bacteria, and dead skin cells become trapped inside of the hair follicle creating an asphyxiating plug. When this plug gets exposed to air, it oxidizes and turns black, hence the black-head name.

 HOW TO GET RID OF THE SPECKLE

This condition is known as strawberry legs when the skin becomes peppered with black specs that resemble strawberry seeds. Aside from black-heads, the dark spots can also be a result of ingrown grown hairs or even razor burn.

To manage the speckle, daily exfoliation and using a clean, sharp blade is key. Two days prior to shaving, alternate exfoliation methods using a granular exfoliant one day, and a chemical exfoliant the next. Granular exfoliants, like salt or sugar scrubs will slough-off dead skin cells, and encourage the follicles to release trapped debris; plus it feels really nice, and the skin will thank you for encouraging  blood flow to the surface! To use a granular scrub on the legs, moisten the skin with warm water, apply a generous amount of the product in your hand, and massage the granules into the skin, using circular motions. Give this process a bit of elbow grease, and continue massaging the product into the skin for a minute or two. This process should be intentional. 

HOW TO SLOUGH IT OFF 

A chemical exfoliant like a glycolic acid, lactic acid or salicylic acid cleansers are great as well. I'm partial to glycolic acid for the face in particular, because it penetrates deeper into the dermal tissue, than other chemical exfoliators. Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy, and for aggressive treatment of strawberry legs, I recommend using a10% glycolic wash, and allow the product to sit on the skin for 2-3 minutes prior to rinsing off. I recommend starting with a 5% version for about two weeks, or until your skin adapts. The goal is to eventually graduate to 10% glycolic acid. 

Strawberry leg maintenance is a perpetual process. This is a chronic situation that your skin is simply prone to, cannot be prevented, but it can be maintained! Offer your skin grace, adopt a perpetual maintenance strategy, and allow it time to adapt and change. 

 Although I am partial to glycolic for the face (and for skin with keratosis pilaris), salicylic acid is a better protocol to manage strawberry legs. It’s a beta hydroxy acid, most commonly used to prevent acne by infusing the follicle with oxygen, which hinders the growth of bacteria. I would consider salicylic acid to be a good-practice for keeping strawberry legs at bay, because an added benefit of salicylic acid is that it has super-power-action that loosens debris in the follicle, and helps in flushing the follicle clean, which is why it’s such a great tool to manage acne! 

The key to using any acid cleanser (whether glycolic, lactic or salicylic) is to soften the skin with warm water, then massage the product in. Allow the acid cleanser to sit on the skin for a few minutes prior to rinsing, this will allow the product to penetrate, melt away the dead skin cells and flush-out the follicles. A change will not happen overnight however. An acid wash protocol should be introduced into your weekly skin-care regime at least three times per week, but not to exceed five times per week. 

You never want to over exfoliate and over work the skin.You should always allow a recovery day or two for the skin to sing its own tune. On the other hand, when using a scrub (acid and/or granular) on the legs to manage strawberry legs, I recommend five to six days per week, offering a one to two day break in between. On the off-days, using a topical cream containing alpha hydroxy, lactic, salicylic or urea is a strawberry skin best practice. Products like AmLactin, or Paula’s Choice Skin Revealing Body Lotion with AHA work really nicely to manage the skin in between aggressive scrub treatments. 

NOW WHAT?

Now that you’ve properly exfoliated the skin, using granular scrubs and acid products, a few days prior to shaving, the skin is now prepared for hair removal. Soften skin in the shower or tub, using warm water. Ensure that your skin is lubricated prior to shaving by using a moisturizing shave cream, or an acid cleanser. I personally scrub my legs with a coconut oil-based salt scrub prior to shaving, then immediately shave my legs using the scrub in lieu of shave cream but this can dull your blade. If using an acid cleanser, simply massage the product into wet skin, allow it to sit on the skin for a minute, then begin to shave.  

It is crucial that your razor remains sharp, clean and sanitary after each use. Gently swipe the blades clean using 70% isopropyl alcohol and cotton. Then spritz the blades with a disinfecting product like Cavicide or Lysol; this will also help to get rid of any bacteria that has accumulated on the surface of the blade. The goal is to avoid using a dull razor on the skin. Discard old razors after two or three uses, even if you think they are still sharp. 

The aim of shaving legs peppered with strawberry seeds, is to shave the hair in the direction of growth. Shaving against the growth will encourage in-grown hair, which can lead to infection and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. After shaving the legs, spray or wipe the skin with witch hazel; I like Thayers witch hazel with rose water. Witch hazel will soothe the skin, and constrict the pores. It will also help to balance the skin's pH, creating a more acidic environment.

HEALTH TIP

When managing any bacteria-causing skin issue, whether it’s acne on the face or strawberry legs, use a small, single use, bleach-washed towel to pat the skin dry. Never use your bath towel, even a freshly washed towel, to dry the area because it may harbor bacteria. Another option would be to use a tissue or paper towel to pat the area dry. The use of a contaminated towel to dry your legs is not a good skin-practice, so have a stack of bleach-washed, single-use towels ready to dry-off the legs (and face) after bathing.

I FOLLOWED YOUR DIRECTIONS AND MY SKIN STILL LOOKS LIKE A STRAWBERRY!

Your skin will not change overnight. Follow my detailed instructions, and allow three to six months for your skin to adapt and change. If after six months your skin is still experiencing issues, you may need to tweak your hair removal system or consult with a board certified dermatologist. 

I would stay away from depilatory creams, as these products contain chemicals that can irritate skin and perpetuate your problem. These products have a chemical component that can cause hyperpigmentation on the skin. My recommendation for alternate hair removal methods are: laser hair removal, electrolysis, threading, sugaring, or waxing. 

HAIR REMOVAL OPTIONS

Laser hair removal can be life changing for many, however it can be costly so consider your budget. Let it not be lost on you that laser hair removal is an invasive procedure that can cause damage to the skin if not done properly. Therefore, always consult with your board certified dermatologist first. Laser hair removal works when the energy source is exposed to a contrast in pigments: skin versus hair. The problem used to be that women of color were never candidates for laser hair removal, due to their melanin-rich skin. However, new developments in laser technology over the years have made it possible to treat darker skin, the key is to consult with an experienced physician. 

Electrolysis is the only permanent form of hair removal. A micro-probe is inserted into the hair follicle, and a low current of energy is introduced, in an effort to slowly but eventually render the hair lifeless. The issue with electrolysis on large areas, such as legs, is that it's tedious! Due to the low amount of current infused into the follicle, it will take time; the process can take a year or more. I always recommend laser hair removal for larger areas first, then follow up with electrolysis to tackle the remaining hair. 

 Waxing, threading or sugaring is the final method of hair removal that I recommend for legs with strawberry specs. Although you should never wax on the face in an effort to preserve skin's elasticity, waxing thicker skin on the body, like the legs, is fine. I recommend going to a chain location for hair removal. A company like European Wax Center maintains universal precautions and strict quality control. You never want to witness double dipping! 

LEG-BEAUTY TIP 

Whether the issue is strawberry skin, varicose veins, spider veins, bruising or hyper pigmentation, most women have some flaw which prevents short skirts from making an appearance! Body makeup is a fabulous quick-fix that I personally subscribe to. One of the products I use is Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs, buy there are so many products on the market today. Research a line that is in your budget and experiment with body makeup like this. 

Body makeup will cover most imperfections, it will even-out skin tone, and many lines will not rub off on your clothes! I do recommend, however, that you scrub your legs with a granular scrub, after the day has ended. You always want to keep that leg-skin clean and sanitized. Treat your legs as you would your face: you would never dream of going to bed without cleansing and toning your face, would you? 

 NOW GO BUY A PAIR OF SHORTY-SHORTS!

Now that you know what strawberry legs are and how to manage it, the key is to be consistent. Remember this: if you care about maintaining beautiful skin, you must enroll in the school for perpetual maintenance; by the way, I’m the headmaster! You must be consistent with the upkeep. Change will not happen overnight. 

Good luck!

Ciao for now, xo